How to Identify a Holset Turbo

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Where to Find the ID Tag

Holset turbochargers carry their identification on a small metal plate or stamped tag riveted to the compressor housing. On popular units like the HX35 and HX40, you will usually find this tag near the compressor outlet. The tag is held in place by two small rivets and is often coated in a layer of grime, oil, or road dirt, so a quick wipe with a rag and some solvent makes the stamped characters far easier to read.

On the variable geometry models such as the HE351VE and HE431VE, the data plate is on the compressor housing as well, and the electronic actuator carries a label of its own with a separate part number. Older H1C and H1E turbos also carry a riveted data plate, but on high-mileage units it is often missing or worn smooth, so check the housings for cast or stamped numbers instead.

Reading the Tag

A Holset tag typically lists the model designation, the Holset assembly number (seven digits), on many tags the engine maker’s own part number, and a serial number unique to that unit. The model designation is what most people use day to day, and it follows a recognizable Holset format. The first letter or two indicates the frame family, for example HX, HE, H1, or H2, while the number that follows indicates the frame size of the turbo. An HX35 sits in the HX family on a 35 frame, and an HX40 steps up to a larger frame within the same family.

The HE prefix denotes the more modern frame range, and a trailing letter set such as CW or VE tells you the wastegate or variable geometry configuration. An HE351CW is a fixed geometry wastegated turbo, while an HE351VE and HE431VE use Holset’s variable geometry sliding nozzle system. The assembly number is the most precise identifier because it ties the unit to an exact build specification, including wheel trim, housing A/R, and wastegate calibration. When you are sourcing parts or a rebuild kit, the assembly number matters far more than the model name alone, since a single model like the HX35 was produced in many different internal specifications.

Common Identification Mistakes

  • Confusing an HX35 with an HX40 by eye alone. The housings look similar at a glance, but the compressor wheel diameter and the outlet size differ, and mixing them up leads to the wrong rebuild kit being ordered.
  • Assuming an HE351CW and an HE351VE share parts. One is a fixed wastegated unit and the other is a variable geometry turbo, so internals are completely different despite the matching 351 number.
  • Reading only the model name and ignoring the assembly number. Two turbos both stamped HX35 can have different wheel trims and housing A/R ratios, which changes the correct components entirely.
  • Trusting an aftermarket relabel. Some imported copies are stamped to mimic a Holset HX or HE unit, and the casting quality, machining, and tag font often reveal that it is not a genuine Holset.
  • Overlooking superseded part numbers. Cummins frequently replaced older assembly numbers with updated ones, so an H1C or H1E may carry a number that no longer matches current catalog listings without cross referencing.

What to Send Us

When you reach out about identifying your turbo, include as much of the following as you can:

  • The full model designation (e.g. HX35, GT3782VA, S400)
  • The assembly or part number, if visible on the tag
  • The serial number, if present
  • A clear photo of the complete tag
  • A clear photo of the complete turbo
  • The vehicle, engine, or equipment it came off of, if known

Email photos to [email protected], or use our Contact form and include what you know in the Turbocharger Info field — we’ll help identify it from there.

Frequently Asked Questions

What should I do if the ID tag is missing or illegible?
Start by measuring the compressor and turbine wheel diameters, the housing A/R if marked, and the inlet and outlet flange dimensions. These measurements, combined with any casting numbers, often let us narrow a Holset down to a specific frame family and likely model even without a readable tag.
Can you identify a Holset turbo from a photo?
Often yes, especially for distinctive models like the HE351VE with its variable geometry actuator. Clear photos of the compressor housing, the turbine housing, the wastegate or actuator, and any visible tag or casting marks give us enough to make an accurate identification in most cases.
Do casting numbers help with identification?
They do. Casting numbers are molded into the compressor and turbine housings and the center bearing housing, and they can confirm the frame family and sometimes the specific housing variant even when the riveted tag is long gone.
How do I tell an HX35 from an HX40?
The most reliable way is to measure the compressor wheel inducer and the housing outlet diameter. The HX40 uses a larger compressor wheel and a larger housing than the HX35, so a direct measurement removes the guesswork that comes from comparing them visually.
Is the assembly number more important than the model name?
For parts and rebuilds, yes. The assembly number defines the exact internal specification, while the model name only tells you the general family. Always provide the assembly number when ordering a kit if it is available.
How can I tell if my Holset is a variable geometry unit?
Look for an electronic actuator bolted to the turbo and wired to the engine harness. Models like the HE351VE and HE431VE use this system and will have an electronic actuator, whereas fixed geometry models such as the HE351CW use a simple wastegate instead.
What does the CW or VE suffix mean on an HE model?
The suffix describes the boost control method. W indicates a wastegated turbo, while VE indicates Holset’s variable geometry design with an electric actuator. This suffix is essential because it tells you whether the turbo has a movable nozzle ring or a fixed turbine housing with a wastegate.
Could my turbo be an aftermarket copy rather than a genuine Holset?
It is possible, particularly with popular models. Genuine Holset units have consistent tag fonts, clean casting work, and matching part numbers that cross reference correctly. If the stamping looks irregular, the casting is rough, or the numbers do not match any known Holset record, send us photos and we can help confirm whether it is authentic.

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